Heroes For Humanity - The Expeditions of Dan Mazur

This blog is devoted to the Mount Everest expeditions of Dan Mazur.

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Location: Dallas, Texas

For more than 15 years Laurel Barrett has worked with charitable and inspirational organizations around the world. She's traveled extensively studying the world's most influential leaders and their philosophies. A little over five years ago she created a grassroots effort called Heroes for Humanity to celebrate heroes from all walks of life.

Friday, November 10, 2006

PEACE IN OUR TIME

Today is a sunny, lucky, and peaceful day in warm, dry, and quiet Kathmandu, as the 7 Nepalese political parties have agreed to let the formerly dreaded "Maoists" join the election process. The elections are to be held in April.

In return, the"Maoists" have agreed to keep their weapons locked up in a secure facility guarded by UN troops. The Nepalese army has agreed to lock up the same number of their own weapons, also guarded by UN troops.

Today you could see the smiles of hope on local people's faces as everyone came out on the street and walked around with their families and children. They huddled in small groups to read the newspaper, which carried the oversized headline:"PEACE IN OUR TIME".
It might be a big step for democracy in Nepal. Lets see if it sticks.

Well, in the next few days, we are going to set off on our annual mission to evaluate the health clinic being built by www.MountEverestFoundation.org . It should be interesting to check in with how things are doing at the clinic, which is 4 days travel by bus and foot from Kathmandu.

We are going to dedicate our report to the 4000 poverty-stricken farm families who live in the valley where the clinic islocated. 1 out of 5 of their children used to die before age 5. We have seen their chances improved by measures being taken by the clinic. We shall strive to continue to do our best by providing health care and education for these struggling farmers, so they can stay and work their lands, rather thanmigrating to the teaming unemployed slums of Kathmandu. Nepal ithe 12th poorest country in the world and the poorest country in Asia.

Watchfor reports on our journey on:http://www.heroesforhumanity.blogspot.com

Thank you very much for staying tuned in.

Yours Sincerely,

Dan

Sunday, November 05, 2006







Today I am writing you from 3500 meter, 11,500 foot high Namche Bazaar in Nepal, close to Mount Everest. The weather is sunny today up here in Sherpa land.

Our team is just finishing a challenging climb of Mera Peak and atricky crossing of the famous Amphu Labtsa pass, just 6 kilometers, 4 miles from Mount Everest. Our climb is dedicated to Steve Irwin, Australian Crocodile Hunter and Sue Fear, the first Australian woman on Everest, who passed away in a tragic climbing accident this year.
Apparently a porter from another team a few days before our team crossed this year fell and suffered a head injury and was evacuated by helicopter. May God help him.

We took extra care with our porters to ensure their safety, so they can return to the comfort of their families.More news coming soon. We have a 20 kilometer, 12 mile walk ahead of us this afternoon, going down to Lukla, where we plan to fly from, back to Kathmandu tomorrow.
Thanks again.

Best Wishes and Wish You Were Here.

Yours Sincerely,


Dan
Above Photo PB030557: Climbing up the steep dangerous Amphu Labtsa Pass on 3 November.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Dear Laurel.

I hope you are well. Thank you very much for telling the Story of our 6400 metre, 21,000 foot high Mera Peak climb on your fantastic internet site: http://heroesforhumanity.blogspot.com/ .

Ian Toop, a friend of the group, who unfortunately could not join us, has made a special request that today's update and our Australian team's climb to the summit be dedicated to Sue Fear, the famous Australian climber, who passed away in a terrible climbing tragedy this summer.

Well, I am writing from 5000 metre, 16,400 foot high Kare (pronouncedKahr-ahy). Its currently 3:30 pm, cloudy and snowing. Our team returned here late yesterday after reaching the 6400 metre, 21,000 foot high summit of Mera Peak at 10:15 am on 30 October.

On 29 October, we walked from Kare to Mera Peak high camp at 5700 metres, 18,700 feet. It was a tough walk. Sadly, one of our members, Pete Dunn, felt very short of breath and determined to descend to Kare in the company of Phurba Bahadur Bikka, rather than continue on. The remainder of our group spent a rough night with little sleep in the cold and windy high camp, arising at 1:00 am on the 30th, to be presented with hot drinks and fresh bread by our trusty cook Dawa, and then began to try for the summit.

It was very cold and difficult going as our little group ascended the peak, and the sun's bright morning rays were very welcome at 6:30 am, as we continued plodding up the trail. By 9:30 am, we reached the final summit snow dome and Tashi, our trusty climbing Sherpa, fixed 100 metres of rope for us to ascend the final snow pitch. Mera Summit, which can be icy at times, was exceptionally snowy this year after this season's late monsoon had deposited a fresh metre of snow.

Once atop 6400 metre, 21,000 foot high Mera Peak, we all hugged and took photos, tying our prayer scarves to the summit flags as a way of saying thanks to the powers that be for our lucky ascent. Indeed, teams the day before and after us suffered frostbite and storms that stopped their progress, so we were certainly blessed. We stood in silence in the light breeze, under cloudless blue skies and bright sun and stared at the incredible views of Everest and all of hersister mountains, and out across the vast reaches of Nepal, Tibet, andIndia.

As we stood there, we thought of our families and loved ones at home, of our friends and colleagues and sponsors.

We send our regards, love, thanks, and best wishes to all! Thank you very much, from Dan Mazur and all of us at www.SummitClimb.com

ps. A special thanks to Laurel Barrett for sharing this news. Thanks Laurel!

pps. We were especially honoured to have Stuart and Kristen Murray with us on the summit, a father and daughter team!

ppps.
Photo captions:

PA310522: Mera Peak, seen from Kare.

PA310520: Our team, back from the Summit!

PA300514: Mount Chamlang right, Mount Makalu centre (Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world and Dan climbed it in 1995), left of centre is the famous Amphu Labtsa Pass.

PA300512: Our team on the peak: Rajan Thapa (trek Leader), Stuart Murray (climb leader), Kristen Murray (Stuart's daughter), Gary (Ferro) Ferris, Mark Garrett, and Tashi Sherpa (climbing sherpa). In the background LCho-Oyu, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse (Dan has been lucky enough to climb each of them).

PA300511: Kristen Murray ties on a prayer flag to the summit marker, inthanks.

PA300508: Rajan, our trek leader, with Stuart, Kristen, and Ferro, Making their way to the base of the summit snow dome where they will ascend the ropes fixed by Tashi.

Thanks again for listening!

Dan

Thursday, October 26, 2006






Hi Laurel.

Thanks so much for letting us tell our story!

Welcome to our trek dedicated to the much respected Australian CrocodileHunter Steve Irwin, who tragicaly passed away recently.

Today our trekking team is at Tangnag, elevation 4400 metres, or 14,432 feet. Since I last wrote on the 23rd, the snow lifted a bit and we were able to cross some more 4500 metre high passes completely pasted in snow, to descend into the beautiful Hinku Valley.

This was an exciting pass crossing to be sure, with rocky peaks encrusted in snow surrounding us as if we were in the jaws of adragon. The trail dropped us unto the valley floor at 3300 metres, so we lost over a kilometre of elevation in a very short stretch. The snow packed trail was quite slick and the porters were scared. Our climbing Sherpas Tashi and Bir Kaji were extremely attentive to everyone's safety, cutting steps in the slippery trail. Rajan Thapa, our trek leader supervised our descent perfectly. That night we stayed along the Hinku Khola River at Kote village and warmed ourselves in a comfortable teahouse.

The following morning we were required to pay a "travel permission fee" to the local political group that control this region: "The Kirat Autonomous Republican Government". It kind of reminds me of the medieval city-states of Europe around here with different valleys having their own seperate governments. Nevertheless, the charge was not that high, and the gentleman who took our money was very polite and even let us take his photo. Afterwards, we began our walk and enjoyed perhaps the loveliest day of our trek yet, strolling along gentle trails in the sunshine through Juniper, Rhododendron, Heather and Ephedra clad meadows along the Hinku River, beneath the towering summits of Choure, Gonghla, and the Mera Himal.

At one point a massive raptor which is a sort of eagle, know as a "Lammergeier" soared just over our heads, and we took it as a sign to stop in a grassy pasture to eat lunch and bathe in the Autumn sun's rays.

Later in the day,we visited a remote monastery shrine in a cave and received the blessings of the local Llama, who lived next to granite like a hermit, and put on an impressive performance for us, chanting, banging a drum, blowing a conchshell, and lighting butter lamps. Open our departure, he gave us each a finescarf, and we felt blessed indeed.

Today we are taking a rest day in the village of Tangnag, elevation 4400 metres, or 14,432 feet. We are on the valley wall to the side of a massive great flood plain littered with housesized granite boulders, which was created six years ago when the ice dam on a large glacial lake "Sabai Tso" burst and scattered the contents of the valley about like popcorn. Hope it doesn't happen again anytime soon!

Well, its time to sign off now, as its snowing again and our solar batteries are waning.

Best wishes to all of our loved ones, family,friends and colleagues, from Dan Mazur and all of us at SummitClimb.com

Photo

PA250494: Buddhist Priest Phurba Temba Lama and his drum, resting after along chanting session in his monastery cave.

PA250492: Rajan Thapa, our awesome trek leader. He is flat out the best trekleader I have met in my 20 years in the Himalaya.

PA250488: Inside the gompa shrine, with statues of Krishna, Gautam Buddha,and Pahdmasambhava.

PA250484: Stuart Murray shows off his newly acquired "travel permit" at Kotevillage.

PA250483: Raj, our trek leader, completing paperwork with the local officerof the "The Kirat Autonomous Republican Government" who was quite friendly.

PA250481: Crossing the final bridge into Kote. Left to right: Ferro(drinking tea), Mark, and Pete.

PA250476: Our little trek team making the descent from a 4500 metre passbetween Chanbu Kharka and Hinku Khola. Slippery, please take care!

PA250471: Last view of our snowy little camp at 4200 metre Chanbu Kharka.

PA250485: Our 4 awesome trek cooks prepare a superb impromptu lunch on theside of the trail along the Hinku Khola.

Thanks again for tuning in! -Dan Mazur from SummitClimb.com

Monday, October 23, 2006

Hello Laurel. I hope you are well. Thanks a lot for covering our expedition!!!!

Our trekking team has arrived at Chanbu Kharka in Nepal at 4200 metres. Its cool with a light breeze. There is plenty of snow about. We are camped in a large valley with 5 crystalline lakes surrounded by high and jagged snowy-rocky peaks. We had to cross a series of 4500 metre high passes in a snow blizzard to arrive in this idyllic valley. It has been raining and snowing (up high) off and on for four days. I would say its unusually wintery this year. Hopefully the weather will break and we will have some more sunshine as we approach our destination: 6500 metre Mera peak. Our team of 6 Australians and 18 staff and little old me seem to be in good spirits so far. Wish us luck!

Here are the photos:

PA200461: At 2850 metre high Pangom, we had a lovely Budddhist blessing
ceremony. Herre is the view from the temple.

PA200462: Ferro receives a blessing from the Buddhist Monks in Pangom.

PA200463: Apprentice monks studying their prayer books in Pangom.

PA200464: Giant Incense burner in Pangom.

PA200467: Crossing a bridge over the Hingku Khola River.

PA220468: Snowy camp at 3600 metre Chulim Kharka.

PA220469: Walking down to 4200 metre Chanbu Kharka.

Thanks!
Dan







Sunday, October 22, 2006

This blog is devoted to Dan Mazur, a hero. Dan was nominated at www.heroesforhumanity.com. This blog is covering his current expedition and following this post are photos of his previous climbs up Mount Everest. This is his story.

On the morning of May 26th 2006, Dan Mazur was leading a team of climbers on a planned ascent up the north ridge of Mount Everest to its summit. Mr. Mazur’s team of climbers consisted of himself, Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Jangbu Sherpa. The team was feeling strong and healthy. There were no winds or clouds. Conditions seemed perfect for climbing to the summit. At 7:30 AM, eight hours into their ascent and two hours below the summit, the men encountered a stricken climber at an altitude of approximately 28,000 feet.

The fallen climber was an Australian named Lincoln Hall. He was sitting on the trail with his jacket around his waist, wearing no hat or gloves. The group stopped to investigate and found he was suffering from symptoms of edema, frostbite and dehydration. He was alone and hallucinating; and generally incoherent in his responses to their offers of help. He was without any of the proper equipment for survival in such conditions.

Apparently Mr. Hall had collapsed the previous day on his way down from the summit. The North Ridge is an inhospitable place. Besides being at 28,000 feet, it is located along a severe ridge line, dropping off 10,000 feet to one side and 7,000 feet to the other. Oxygen and proper equipment are virtually essential to survival. Mazur’s party quickly decided to give up their own summit attempt to save Mr. Hall. They anchored him to the mountain, replaced the hat, jacket and gloves he had discarded, and gave him their own oxygen, food and water.

They radioed Hall’s team, who had given him up for dead. Mazur convinced them that Hall was still alive and must and could be saved. (Mr. Hall’s team leader had called his wife the night before to tell her that Hall was dead). The rescuers arranged for Sherpas from Hall’s team to ascend and help with the rescue.

Mazur’s group stayed four hours to care for Mr. Hall. Phil Crampton coordinated the rescue from the high camp at 26,000ft and Kipa Sherpa acted as liaison to Lincoln Hall’s team at advance base camp at 21,000ft. Extended stays at extreme altitude are risky when planned in advance and when climbers have all the supplies they need. Going to the summit after so many hours spent helping Hall was out of the question.

By using their own survival supplies to sustain Hall, Mazur and his team risked worsening weather conditions that could have severely inhibited their own descent. Clearly, these men sacrificed a lifetime dream and risked their own lives to save Lincoln Hall. What is especially gripping about this story is that several days before the rescue another climber named David Sharp, who had collapsed a bit lower on the mountain than Mr. Hall, was passed by 40 climbers on their way to the summit, who did not stop to help him.

Mr. Sharp eventually died after 3 days, because he received no help. Faced with the same situation, Mazur and company decided to help.

In addition to being an expedition leader Mazur is also involved in starting hospitals and schools in poor parts of Nepal where 4000 people live cut off from any roads, electricity, phones or running water. He continues to be involved in raising money and managing those projects on a constant basis. Much more information is available at www.mounteverestfoundation.org






Friday, October 20, 2006

Hello Laurel.

We are in Pangoma village in Nepal, at 2850 metres. I am with a group of 6 members from New South Wales in Australia. Our trek is dedicated to the dearly departed Australian Crocodile Hunter Steve Irwin. He will be missed, and we send our condolences to his family.

Its the third day of our trek to 6500 metre Mera Peak, and today was a stunning day of walking through huge forests of rhododendron, evergreen oak trees and tiny villages on steep slopes. This afternoon we were "blessed" by a storm of hail mixed with rain. Hopefully tomorrow will bring fair weather.

Here are the photo of our trip.

PA190454: Local kids goofing for the camera in Puiyan, just beofre going to school.

PA190456: Kristen Murray, Stuart Murray's daughter, enjoying the view at a break along the trail.

PA190457: Ferro watches while Stuart takes a photo of our staff Bir Kaji Shrestha and leader Rajan Thapa crossing a bridge over a waterfall in the background of the photo.

PA190459: A farmer in Pangoma plowing his fields with oxen.

PA190460: Today is Tihar, a multi-day Hindu festival. The Pangoma kids turned out in force for dancing and singing.

Any news on the possibility of our team members families being able to watch the team's progress on the internet?

Thanks again for all of your help! -Dan







Wednesday, October 18, 2006


Hello Laurel.

We hope you are well. Thanks for your interest in our expedition.

We are in Nepal at 2800 metres in the beautiful and green hill village of Puiyan, on the trail to 6500 metre high Mount Mera, with a group of 6 members from Australia. Our trek is dedicated to the Australian Crocodile Hunter Steve Irwin. He will be missed, and we send our condolences to his family. This group of Australians I am with are from New South Wales.

I have attached a couple of photos:


PA170448 is our 18 seat plane that we flew in from Kathmandu to the 2800 metre high airport in Lukla.

PA180452 is our group photo, taken in Puiyan.

>From left to right:

Kristen Murray (daughter)

Stuart Murray (father)

Bir Kaji Shrestha

Peter Dunn

Tashi Sherpa

Bill Mckinnon-Matthews

Rajen Thapa

Gary (Ferro) Ferris

Mark Garrett

Thanks again for all of your assistance, and we were wondering if these blogs and photos will be visible on the internet so the members families can see them? If so, could you please send the URL?

Thanks!!! Dan

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Hi Laurel.

Thanks for your interest in our mountain climbing expedition coming up in a couple days, and in the trip to visit the health clinic. I am so excited to be working with you.

Yours Sincerely,
Dan

Thursday, October 12, 2006

Hello Laurel.

I hope you are well.

This is Dan Mazur from SummitClimb.com writing back to you.

I am with our team in Kathmandu, the warm, sunny, and peaceful capital of Nepal.

I just walked and flew back here to Kathmandu from the very beautiful 11,500 foot Namche Bazaar, the airy capital of the Sherpa people. Up there at the base of the Himalayan peaks, just a few miles from Everest, the weather was sparkling clear and cool in the mornings, and cloudy and warm in the afternoons. I was up there with one of our Ama Dablam expeditions. Ama Dablam is 22,500 feet high, located 12 miles from Everest, and known as Asia's most famous rock, ice, and snow climb. I have now returned to Kathmandu and am greeting our Cho Oyu expedition, just returned from Tibet, with 8 on the summit. Next week I will be joining another expedition to Mera Peak and crossing the Amphu Labtsa Pass near to Everest. In the first weeks of November, we will travel to a small hospital we are building, which serves 4000 poor sherpas who live on the wrong side of Everest where tourists never go. I wish you were here with me.

You can follow the progress of our expeditions on EverestNews.com .

After our return in mid November we will begin plans for our 2007 Winter and Spring expeditions to Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and the North Col.

I would like to call you, but I am afraid its already 11pm in Texas, so it might be too late to call you as I don't want to be rude.

Perhaps I should try again in the morning.

Friday, October 06, 2006

Hi Laurel.

Thanks for writing. I am in 11,500 foot capital of the Sherpas called Namche Bazaar. Its beautiful in the mornings with lots of views of the mountains, and clouds up in the afternoons. I have been seeing one of our groups off and am going back to Kathmandu shortly to meet our next group and begin the trek to Mera Peak. I am going to be in Kathmandu in a couple of days. Thanks again!

-Dan

Monday, October 02, 2006

Hi Laurel.

Thanks for writing. I hope you are well. I would love to work with you.

Here are a couple of items for your consideration:

1. As I have already climbed Ama Dablam 5 times and we have an excellent new leadership team for that climb, I might just trek with them to basecamp for five days and then move on to develop a new trip in a remote area.

2. The trip is a trek to the more remote Hinku Valley to climb Mera Peak, including a traverse of a high icy pass and a return to Ama Dablam via another valley behind it. So its kind of a grand circle.

3. After that, I plan to visit a health post we have been building in aid of4000 poor farmers who live with nothing in the middle of nowhere. It takes about a week to walk there and back. One (1) out of five (5) of their children die before age five (5). We are trying to help them with their medical situation so they can get back to work farming the land responsibly, and not migrate to the slums of Kathmandu.

I would be glad to phone you or send you emails as I travel through these places.

Dan

Sunday, October 01, 2006

Hi Laurel.

Thank you very much for calling. I would be extremely honoured to do a blog for Heroes for Humanity. I do have access to email nearly every day and a satellite telephone as well, so it would be practical for me to send you updates about how things are going on our expedition.

Thanks for letting me know how I could be of help. I await your reply.

Yours Sincerely,
Dan

Saturday, September 30, 2006

Hi Laurel. Thanks for writing. I hope this email finds you well. I am in Nepal at this time, where we are climbing Ama Dablam, Asia's most famous rock and ice peak, 12 miles from Everest. I will try to call you. For the next few days you can also try to reach me in Nepal.